To truly understand Vanuatu, you have to leave the relative polish of Port Vila behind. Espiritu Santo - the nation’s largest island - dances to an entirely different rhythm. It is a place where world-renowned diving, ancient limestone filtration, and a heavy pocket of history converge.
We arrived into Santo’s main centre, Luganville (which incidentally, was built by American soldiers during World War II) just in time for an early evening ferry ride out to Aore Resort.
Coconut cocktail in hand, we cruised slowly past the port with its picturesque array of boats and local kids playing, and headed across the lagoon to Aore Island. A quick and relaxing 15 minute ride, this ferry operates five times a day to coincide with flights, diving trips, and other tours.
The main purpose of our visit (apart from a sumptuous BBQ dinner) was to witness a water music performance.
Liberally dosed with mozzie repellant we made our way down to the beach for a warrior’s welcome while the grass-skirted women waded out into the lagoon.
While the sky darkened and the lights of Santo sparkled on the horizon like fairy lights, the women began drumming the water with their hands, faces lit with the joy of their music. Every single person standing on the beach was mesmerised for the full performance. It was, quite honestly, awe inspiring.
Up early the next morning we jumped in the van and made our way out to Champagne Beach.
Turning off the palm-lined promenade of a road onto an innocuous dirt track, we made our way across some farmland, paid a small fee to the local family who owns it (500 vatu – approx. $5 NZD) and pulled up under the trees.
What greeted us was a wide crescent-shaped beach of pure white sand, an expense of the prettiest aquamarine ocean I have ever seen… and not another (human) soul in sight. Heaven.
Even more heavenly were the champagne and pastries we were served for breakfast.
Heading back to town we made a detour to the Blue Holes. Espiritu Tourism Association describes these as “one of the true wonders of the world” and I can’t say I disagree.
Tucked away in the tropical jungle, the pools owe their colour and clarity to natural limestone filtration and pure depth. There are three pools – all are within a short drive of each other on the East Coast of Santo. We went to Matevulu, the largest of the three, which is reportedly 17m deep.
Jump off the platform, climb the tree for the rope swing or just wander in slowly – you won’t want to leave these refreshing little oases.
Back into town for lunch and that was it for our exploration of whistle-stop tour of Santo, but there’s plenty more to do if you have the extra time. In particular, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the diving.
I’m not a diver but if I was going to learn this would be the place I’d do it. The history geek in me is dying to check out the perfectly preserved SS President Coolidge – a cruise ship turned troop transport that sank coming into Santo Harbour.
The authorities here have a strict no looting law, so diving the Coolidge is like going back in time. There are guns, cannons, personal items, even chandeliers! Not to mention the sea life that have made their home there.
Along the same lines is Million Dollar Point. When the Americans left Vanuatu at the end of World War II they dumped everything they weren’t taking with them into the sea. There are literally millions of dollars worth of diggers, trucks and bulldozers piled all on top of each other - and littered with antique glass coke bottles - just off the coast to create one of the most unique dive sites in the world.
Words and photography by Anita Burgess. This piece was captured on assignment in Vanuatu, courtesy of Vanuatu Tourism & Air Vanuatu. Available for editorial commissions and commercial tourism imagery across New Zealand and worldwide.
