To find the true pulse of Fiji, you have to break away from the manicured resorts of Denarau and head north. Up in the outer reaches of the Yasawa Islands, the landscape shifts. It becomes a volcanic rhythm of sharp ridges, elegant palms leaning over deserted white sands, and an underwater world that feels entirely untouched.
You’ll find the Yasawa Islands lying just to the North of Viti Levu (home of Nadi, Suva & Denarau). Easily accessible by air or sea, this group of around 20 volcanic islands offers both quiet isolation and pristine coastlines. Think Tom Hanks & Cast Away (fun fact: that movie was filmed at Monuriki Island – one of the first stops on my Yasawa Islands cruise).
Once solely the domain of island-hopping backpackers, the Yasawas are now also host to a handful of luxury all-inclusive resorts.
But by far the best way to visit is by ship.
This isn't the loud, neon-lit reality of mega-cruise liners. Small-ship expedition cruising feels more like an intimate journey with an extended family. There are no slow-moving immigration lines or sterile decks - just a slow, deliberate pace.
From the moment we stepped onto the gangplank we were welcomed like long-lost friends.
The pace was slow and somewhat luxurious – a morning beach visit (do as much or as little as you like) followed by a swim in the onboard pool and a shower before lunch. The leisurely midday meal pre-empted a quiet refreshing drink on the sundeck before a stop at a picturesque island village for a taste of culture, or another equally stunning (and deserted) beach.
Sundowner cocktails rolled into 5-star evening dining in the ship’s restuarant, with live local music rounding up the day’s itinerary.
Cruising like this really is all about the destination. Expedition ships are small with basic, but more than adequate, amenities.
The architecture onboard embraces the expedition spirit. Cabins are compact and purposeful, trading private balconies for classic portholes and shared promenades. It’s a design choice that encourages you to look outward, reminding you constantly of the vast, shifting horizon just beyond the glass.
You won’t find waterslides, climbing walls or huge movie screens here – but you will have a pool, plenty of public space for convalescing, and the fantastic food you’d expect from a 4/5 star cruise line. First rate spa facilities are the icing on the cake.
